Monday, October 15, 2012

FOOD: Restaurant WD-50 NYC - WOW

WOW!  I can't find a better Complement for an establishment.  FACT OF CULINARY LIFE: ONLY 10% of diners are ADVENTUROUS.  This review appeals to them.  Go to the next post if you are not.  Go somewhere else for Beef Wellington, General Tso's Chicken or Veal Scalopini.  This place will NOT appeal to the MEAT AND POTATOES unadventurous.  Leave now while you still can.

As I am cooking more, we are going out less.  Going out for mediocre food and "Staten Island" lackadaisical, untrained service is NO FUN.   So when we go out, I try to look for something really SPECIAL.  WD-50 lands in this select category.  It deserves perhaps an NY Times three and a half star rating, higher than what Frank Brunei gave it.  It is just under the outstanding four star performance of 11 Madison Park.  This is an expensive place that now has two tasting menus, 12 courses and 5 courses.  No a la carte, but see the exception from their website below in their bar menu.

The secret weapon is chef Wylie Dufresne.  I saw him on the food network a few weeks ago turning fish into NOODLES using natural enzymes.  As a recovering Food Scientist, I said YES, I MUST have this food. He is Classically trained as a French Chef but has exploded into the new techniques of MOLECULAR CUISINE and SOUS-VIDE.  He is not a food scientist by degree, but is in practice.  This is a GOOD THING.  Think Alton Brown of the Food Network.   

Wine list: Rapacious.  Perhaps the most expensive in the city.  Wines are available by the glass.  Had a RYE beer.  Very unusual.


To the Food:
Among the first of the 12 courses was his take on Peas and Carrots.  The "peas" are carrots underneath with dried pea powder.  Read that again.  My Polish Grandmother never served ANYTHING with "dried pea powder."  There are watercress, sliced carrots, and hidden underneath is a cured, flavored, cured duck egg yolk and a chicken sous-vide treat. 

ON THE PHOTOGRAPHY:  This is with a cell phone, not with my full battle dress and lighting kit.
JA


Snapper with Fried Butternut squash, and DELFINO, the green cilantro-like sprig on top.  The dish had cherry, juniper and square cubes of cous-cous.

The other 10 courses have similar surprises.  You will walk out filled and smiling.  One of the desserts was flash frozen on the surface with Liquid Nitrogen. Creme Brulee uses a propane torch routinely.  Organic, Whole Grain and granola folks will not understand and get agitated. Stay home. This is playful, wonderful, fresh cuisine using new safe techniques that 18th century farmers never dreamed of.


From the WD-50 website:

A menu served in the bar area can be enjoyed for $25 dollars by selecting any two items from either the short or long tasting menu; additional courses can be added at $15 per course.


The menus at wd~50 utilize elements and techniques from a wide array of cuisines. The restaurant has garnered praise for its inspired culinary combinations, cutting edge culinary techniques, and innovative use of ingredients.

The restaurant was designed by Dewey Dufresne and Louis Mueller. 


Frank Bruni of the New York Times awarded wd~50 three stars in March of 2008. 

In 2006, in the Michelin Guide's inaugural American edition, wd~50 received one star, which it has retained through 2012.

50 CLINTON ST.
between Stanton & Rivington
on Manhattan's Lower East Side
212.477.2900

Reservations necessary.  It was packed on a Sunday night after NINE YEARS.



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